Confirm you have an iMac 27-inch (2014–2020) — check the label on the bottom of the stand. Place the iMac screen-down on a soft surface like a folded towel or foam pad to protect the glass. Have your tools ready before starting.

Insert the included display adhesive cutter (pizza slicer) into the gap between the glass panel and the aluminium frame. Work slowly around the entire perimeter to slice through the adhesive tape that secures the display.

Carefully begin to lift the display panel. Do not pull it fully open — the screen is still attached by the power cable and the display data (flex) cable. Support the glass with one hand and stop once you have enough room to reach the connectors.

Disconnect the power cable before the display cable. Locate the power connector (a flat multi-pin socket near the centre of the chassis) and unplug it. This eliminates residual charge from the capacitors and makes subsequent steps safer.

Locate the display data cable connector on the logic board. Lift the small locking tab, then carefully pull the cable straight out. Handle it gently — this eDP cable will be reused with the driver board.

With the cables free, open the display fully or lift it away from the chassis. Using a plastic pry tool, peel off all remaining adhesive strips from around the frame. Clean adhesive on the rim is important for a good seal when reassembling.

The display panel is now completely removed. Set it aside face-down on a clean, soft surface to protect the glass. The iMac chassis is now open and ready for internal component removal.

Using a Philips or flip-head screwdriver, remove the screws securing the screen bracket strip on the screen side. This releases the assembly which you will connect to the driver board later.

Use a T10 Torx screwdriver to loosen the speaker mounting screws. You do not need to remove them completely — just making them loose gives you more room to manoeuvre during logic board removal. Removing the speakers entirely is optional — your choice.

Disconnect the fan power connector and remove the fan mounting screws. Lift the fan straight out. The fan is no longer needed once the internal components are removed.

Disconnect all cables running to the power supply unit. Unscrew the mounting screws and carefully lift the PSU out of the chassis — it is heavy. Set it aside. The original power supply is not reused in this build.

Locate all logic board mounting screws (typically 6–8 screws). Use T8 and T10 Torx screwdrivers. Work methodically around the board and keep the screws in a safe place. Do not remove the board yet — disconnect the cables first (next step).

Carefully disconnect every remaining cable from the logic board — lift locking tabs first, then pull each connector straight out. Include all power, antenna, and ribbon cables. Once all connectors are free, lift the logic board out of the chassis.

Unscrew the Wi-Fi antenna card mounting screws and gently peel the antenna away from the chassis. The antenna cables are very thin and fragile — handle with care and do not yank the wires.

Remove any remaining screws in the chassis. Then locate the power socket on the rear of the iMac — remove the two small screws holding it in place. Use a large flat-head screwdriver to push the socket from inside the chassis, pushing firmly downward until it pops out through the rear panel. You will now see a clean rectangular hole where the power socket was — this is where the USB-C and power cables will exit.

Clean the inside and rim of the iMac chassis if needed, removing any dust or debris. Apply the supplied adhesive strips around the rim. Keep the plastic backing film on for now — you will peel it just before pressing the glass back down.

Using a plastic pry tool, carefully peel all remaining adhesive from the edges of the glass panel. The surface must be completely clean for the new adhesive strips to bond properly during reassembly.

Gently disconnect the eDP display cable from the back of the LCD panel. Lift the locking tab and pull the connector straight out. This cable will connect to the driver board in Part 2.

Before connecting the driver board, apply Kapton tape over the exposed metal areas on the back of the LCD panel near the connector. This insulating tape prevents short circuits between the board electronics and the bare metal of the panel.

Carefully align the eDP display cable with the connector on the driver board. Press it flat until it seats fully and the locking tab engages. Give it a gentle tug to confirm it is locked in — a loose connection will cause a blank or flickering screen.

Connect the power cable to the driver board. Look for the two small holes on the connector housing — ensure those two holes are facing upward before inserting. The correct orientation is also marked on the board itself. Incorrect polarity will prevent the display from powering on.

The driver board is now fully connected. Route the USB-C video cable and power adapter cable through the hole left by the removed power socket. These cables will remain external — connecting to your computer and wall outlet respectively.

Use double-sided tape to mount the controller board securely inside the rear of the iMac chassis — this gives easy access to the USB-C and power ports. The board is safe to touch during normal operation. Attach the power supply brick to the back of the iMac stand using additional double-sided tape. You can choose your own preferred mounting location for the power supply.

Before sealing the glass, run a full test. Connect the USB-C cable to your MacBook or computer and plug in the power adapter. The iMac panel should light up and show your computer’s screen at full 5K resolution. The adhesive plastic film has not been removed yet at this stage — test everything first.

Once confirmed working, peel the plastic backing film from the adhesive strips around the rim. Carefully lower the glass panel back onto the chassis, aligning it evenly on all sides. Press firmly around the entire perimeter to bond the adhesive. Hold for 30–60 seconds to ensure good adhesion.

If the on-screen display (OSD) menu appears in a non-English language, use this button sequence to switch to English:

Menu → Down (6×) → Menu (3×)

The driver board’s OSD menu includes colour temperature and brightness adjustments. These are entirely optional — explore the menu to find the settings that suit your preference and viewing environment.

The Up and Down OSD navigation buttons work relative to the physical orientation of the controller board. If your Up/Down navigation seems reversed, rotate the board 180° and remount it. The words “Up” and “Down” are printed directly on the board as a reference.