Turn Your iMac 27-inch (2009–2011) Into a Display – Installation Guide - Macfixit Australia Skip to content

Turn Your iMac 27-inch (2009–2011) Into a Display – Installation Guide

Completed iMac 27 converted to 2K external monitor

How to Install a Display Driver Board in an iMac 27-inch (2009–2011)

⏱ 60–120 min🔧 Moderate Difficulty✓ iMac Thick Model

Give your retired iMac 27" a new life as a stunning 2K external monitor. This guide walks you through removing the internal components, installing the Macfixit Display Driver Board, and connecting it to any Mac or PC via USB-C.

Disconnect Power & Wait 30 Minutes Before Starting

Before opening your iMac, unplug the power cable from the wall socket and leave it disconnected for at least 30 minutesThe internal power supply retains dangerous electrical charge even after shutdown. Skipping this step risks electric shock and permanent component damage.

27 Display Driver Board
Featured Product for This Guide
27" Display Driver Board — iMac 27" (2009–2011, A1312)
Recommended – Good to Have
Scotch Permanent Clear Mounting Tape
Scotch Permanent Mounting Tape
25.4mm × 1.51m double-sided clear tape

2K Web Camera with Auto Focus
2K Web Camera with Auto Focus & Microphone
USB webcam with built-in mic

80 Piece Advanced Toolkit
80 Piece Advanced Toolkit
Torx, Phillips & precision screwdrivers

⚠ Compatibility WarningThis kit is designed exclusively for the iMac 27-inch (2009, 2010 & 2011 models)Check the underside of the stand for the model number before purchasing. It will not work with other iMac sizes or years.

What's in the Kit

  • Display Driver Board (main controller)
  • Power/Inverter Board
  • eDP display cable
  • DisplayPort to USB-C cable (2m)
  • 12V 5A–8A Power Adapter

Tools You'll Need

  • 2x Suction cups
  • T10 Torx screwdriver
  • T8 Torx screwdriver
  • Plastic spudger / pry tool
  • Double-sided tape
⚠ Before You StartThe iMac's built-in camera, microphone, and speakers will not function after conversion. Work on a clean, padded surface and handle all components with care.

Part 1

Disassembly

1

Confirm your iMac model

iMac 27 front viewiMac 27 rear view

Confirm you have an iMac 27-inch (2009–2011) — check the label on the bottom of the stand. Place the iMac face-up on a padded surface.

2

Remove the glass panel

Lifting the glass panel with suction cups

Place two suction cups on the lower corners of the glass panel. Pull firmly and evenly to break the magnetic seal. Tilt the glass forward and set it face-down on a clean cloth.

TipThe glass is held by magnets only — no screws. It takes firm force to break the seal on the first pull.
3

LCD panel now exposed — remove the perimeter screws

iMac with glass panel removed, LCD visible

With the glass removed the LCD panel is visible inside the aluminium frame. Remove the T10 Torx screws around the perimeter of the LCD (typically 8–12 screws).

4

SLOWLY Tilt the LCD panel forward to expose the internals

LCD panel tilted forward showing internal components

Carefully tilt the LCD panel toward you — do not pull it too far as it is still connected by cables. Rest it at about 45 degrees to access the connectors underneath.

5

Disconnect the display data connector from the logic board

Display data connector on logic board highlighted

Locate the display data connector on the logic board (circled in photo). Press the locking tab and gently pull the connector straight out.

6

Disconnect the backlight cable

Backlight cable connector highlighted on GPU board

Disconnect the flat ribbon backlight cable from the GPU board (circled). Flip up the locking tab before pulling to avoid damage.

7

Disconnect the LCD power cable from the logic board

eDP cable being disconnected from LCD panel

On the back of the LCD panel, flip up the small locking tab on the eDP connector and carefully slide the cable free.

8

Disconnect the LCD sensor cables from the logic board

LCD power connectors on logic board

Disconnect the remaining cables from the area of the logic board labelled LCD (circled). These are the backlight power and LCD power connectors.

9

Fully remove the LCD panel and glass

LCD panel, glass panel and chassis separated

With all cables disconnected, lift the LCD panel fully out of the chassis and set it aside. You should now have three items: chassis, glass panel, and LCD panel.

10

Strip all internal components from the chassis

Fully stripped iMac chassis

Remove the logic board, hard drive, optical drive, power supply, fans, and all remaining hardware. You are stripping the chassis to an empty shell.

⛔ DO NOT Remove the Stand Mounting BracketLeave the internal stand-mounting bracket completely in place. Removing it makes reassembly impossible.
11

Identify the bracket to keep — and the cable routing hole

Stand mounting bracket DO NOT REMOVECable routing hole through iMac stand

The black bracket at the bottom-right (circled) must stay — it is the stand attachment mechanism. Also note the circular cable hole where the stand meets the chassis — this is where your USB-C and power cables will exit.

12

Empty chassis — ready for the driver board

Stand mounting bracket close-up — DO NOT REMOVEEmpty iMac chassis laid flat

The chassis is fully stripped with only the stand mounting bracket remaining (circled). You are ready to install the driver board.

Part 2

Driver Board Installation

13

Connect the new eDP cable to the LCD panel

Connecting new eDP cable to LCD paneleDP cable connected to LCD
eDP cable fully seated and locked

Lay the LCD panel face-down on a soft cloth. Align the new eDP cable (from the kit) with the eDP connector on the back of the LCD. Insert it straight in and press the locking tab flat to secure it. Give it a gentle tug to confirm it is locked.

⚠ Be GentleThe eDP connector is fragile. Do not force it — ensure perfect alignment before inserting.
14

Note: do not remove the LCD back bracket

DO NOT REMOVE bracket on back of LCD panel

There is a black plastic bracket on the LCD back labelled DO NOT REMOVE THIS PART. Leave it in place — it is a structural bracket for the LCD assembly.

15

Mount the driver boards on the back of the LCD panel

Driver boards mounted on LCD back with UP arrowClose-up of main controller and power boardLCD with driver boards and UP orientation

Using double-sided tape, mount both driver boards to the upper-left section of the LCD back:

  • Main controller board (left) — USB-C input, HDMI port, button ribbon connector
  • Power/inverter board (right) — connected via the red/yellow/black power harness

The LCD has an "UP" arrow — orient the boards so all ports are accessible when reinstalled in the chassis.

16

Lower the LCD (with boards attached) into the chassis

Driver boards installed inside the iMac chassis

Carefully lower the LCD panel — with boards attached — back into the iMac chassis. The driver boards sit at the top of the chassis interior. Ensure no cables are pinched.

17

Connect all cables to the driver board

Driver board port connections highlighted

Connect the following to the main controller board:

  1. The eDP ribbon cable from the LCD into the eDP port on the controller board
  2. The power barrel connector from the power harness into the DC input
  3. The button controller ribbon cable (if your kit includes one)

Also connect the USB-C cable into the USB-C port — this will be routed out through the stand.

Part 3

Cable Routing & Reassembly

18

Route cables out through the stand hole

USB-C and power cables routed through the stand opening

Feed the USB-C cable and power cable through the circular opening at the base of the chassis. This keeps the cable run clean. The button controller board tucks neatly into the gap near the stand.

19

Connect the 12V power adapter

12V power adapter on desk

Plug the included 12V 5A–8A power adapter into the power cable. The adapter sits on your desk behind the stand. Do not power on yet.

20

Reinstall the LCD screws then replace the glass panel

Glass panel being placed back onto the iMac

Reinstall the T10 Torx screws around the LCD perimeter. Then align the glass panel over the magnetic frame and press firmly around all edges until it snaps back into place.

TipDo a quick power-on test before replacing the glass to confirm the display works — much easier to troubleshoot before reassembling.

Part 4

First Power-On & Language Setup

21

Connect and power on

Completed iMac 27 working as 2K external monitor

Connect the USB-C end of the included cable to your MacBook or PC's Thunderbolt / USB-C port. Plug in the power adapter. The display should turn on and be detected automatically as a 2K external monitor.

On macOS go to System Settings → Displays. On Windows go to Display Settings → Detect.

✓ It's Working!Your iMac 27" is now a 2560×1440 (2K) external monitor powered by the Macfixit Display Driver Board.
22

Change the OSD language to English (if needed)

OSD menu in ChineseOSD Language icon highlighted
OSD English selected

If the OSD menu defaults to Chinese, switch to English:

  1. Press the Menu button on the controller
  2. Navigate to the gear/settings icon
  3. Select Language (globe icon)
  4. Select English
  5. Press confirm to save

Reference

Troubleshooting

Issue Likely Cause Solution
No image on screen Loose eDP or power cable Re-seat the eDP cable at both ends
Monitor not detected USB-C port lacks DisplayPort Alt Mode Try a Thunderbolt port
Screen flickers Loose power connection Check the DC barrel connector
Very dim image Backlight cable not seated Re-seat the backlight power connector
OSD in Chinese Default language Follow Step 22 above

Reference

Button Controller Guide

DT-HCSX168 controller board button guide

Installation Complete!

Your iMac 27" is now a fully functional 2K external monitor. Camera and speakers are no longer active — but the display looks incredible.

Buy the Display Driver Board →

Questions? Email us at helpdesk@macfixit.com.au

Important: where to place the double-sided tape

When you mount the driver board, the double-sided foam tape must only touch a bare, flat area of the board. If the tape is placed over the pin headers, solder pads or components, it can bridge the contacts and cause a short circuit — which can permanently damage the board. Take a moment to position the tape correctly before pressing it down.

✗ Wrong — tape over the pins
Driver board with double-sided tape placed in the wrong position over the pin header
Close-up of double-sided tape covering the metal pins, which can cause a short circuit
✓ Correct — tape on a bare area
Driver board with double-sided tape placed correctly on a bare flat area
Close-up of double-sided tape on a clear flat area of the board, away from pins

The board pictured is a sample from our workshop — yours may look slightly different depending on your model, but the same rule applies to every board: keep the tape clear of pins, solder pads and components.